Wool is resistant to water, moths, stink, and stains, insulates and maintains a comfortable temperature; you can’t ask for much more in cloth. Meanwhile, although wool has many desirable characteristics, it is sometimes criticised for being itchy, abrasive, heavy, etc. So, manufacturers of wool products have worked hard to address these concerns and promote wool as the material for many applications.
Wool’s finest qualities are its strength, fineness, flexibility and reliability. And wool quality is determined by factors such as sheep breed, fibre length, fibre quality, yarn twist, and spinning quality. Besides, if you are a wool manufacturer, did you know that manufacturers, suppliers, and other wool dealerships can get certified for quality?
Micron Thickness of Wool Fibres
Wool can be measured and graded most accurately by its micron thickness. This is one of the wool grading methods used in the United States and Australia. Wool fineness is often measured in terms of fibre diameter. As such, the diameter of coarse wool fibre may be as large as 38 microns, while the diameter of the finest wool fibre can be as small as 14 microns.
- A finer fibre has a decreased micron count. And one should make next-to-skin clothing from wool with a micron thickness of 15-24.
- Wool with a micron thickness of 15 to 18 is considered “superfine.”
- When you talk about “fine wool,” you refer to fibres between 18 and 22 microns in diameter. This is the typical price range for merino wool.
- Half-blood wool is wool that falls between 22 and 25 microns in thickness.
- Wool that falls between 24 and 30 microns in thickness is considered “medium wool.”
- Braid Wool, which typically has a micron thickness of more than 30, is the coarsest.
Woollen vs Worsted
The two primary options among wool textiles are woollen and worsted. Fabrics woven from wool are thick and fluffy because the wool fibres used to spin the yarn are only 1 to 3 inches long. Meanwhile, worsted textiles are characterised by their smoothness, lustre, and strength, all of which come from the yarns crafted from longer threads.
Fabrics made from wool are cosier than those made from worsted, but they wear out much more quickly. And most people agree that the best suit materials are those made from worsted wool because of their smooth texture and increased drape. Besides, textiles made of wool are preferable to worsted fabrics because they are warmer and more tactile.
- Wool tweed is your best bet for a casual-chic style. Tweed is a classic fabric that will never go out of style.
- Bonded or laminated wool is a good choice if you need robust, strong wool with a backing. The backing of this material will be glued, and it is useful in producing such items as blankets, bags, etc.
- Wool’s excellent water absorption is useful in many ways but also causes a common issue: shrinking. This assessment must be made before purchasing any wool yardage.
- Wool fabrics are not recommended for home laundering for many reasons, including their propensity to shrink and the felted, matted appearance that can result after washing. Meanwhile, wool that has been treated to prevent shrinking is also available.
Wool textiles woven by hand should last longer than those produced on power looms. Meanwhile, the twist is an important property of wool yarn. Fabrics made from yarn with the correct twist will be durable and long-lasting.
When wool comes into contact with the skin, it might trigger an allergic reaction in certain people. The harsh chemicals and dyes used in processing wool fibres into yarn or fabric might be to blame. So, fabrics and yarns made from wool can be washed to reduce this problem. Hence, before using it for the first time, wash wool by hand in a detergent formulated for use with wool and lay it flat to dry.
Every manufacturer has their own set of priorities when selecting wool, so it’s helpful to learn as much as possible about the many types of wool available to you and get certified with the agency concerned. Besides, consider the circumstances of animal husbandry and shearing, as they are the only two examples of things to avoid while selecting wool.